To make the rub: In a small bowl combine the rub ingredients. Trim any excess fat and silver skin from the tenderloins and spread the rub evenly all over, pressing the spices into the meat. Cut six 12-inch pieces of cotton string, three for each tenderloin. Wrap the tenderloin with the slices of pancetta and secure the pancetta with the string. (The tenderloins do not need to be completely covered.) Allow to stand at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes before grilling.

Grill the tenderloins over Indirect Medium heat until the centers are barely pink and the internal temperature reaches 155°F, 25 to 30 minutes, turning once halfway through grilling time. Move the tenderloins over Direct Medium heat for the last 3 minutes if you want to crisp the pancetta. Allow the tenderloins to rest for 3 to 5 minutes, then snip the strings with scissors and remove them. Cut the tenderloins in thin slices on the bias and serve warm.

© Barbara Deitch 2020