The Cruise to Peru

Thursday, January 31

When we left our condo this morning it was -25°. We hadn’t reserved a Lyft ride and it did take about 10 minutes for a driver to arrive. Amir, from Ethiopia, wasn’t even wearing a jacket when he put our luggage in the trunk. Lyft drivers aren’t usually talkative, but he shared that he had to flee his home and live in Egypt for a number of years. He said the government killed his father and brother. He finally made it to the U.S. and has 2 children who were born here. He also told us that there were fewer drivers who want to drive in this extreme cold. The lines at MSP were longer than usual and instead of having an agent check our luggage, we had to print tags and affix them ourselves (there were all kinds of Delta folks there to help). Everyone working at the airport was very pleasant—I imagine the TSA people are happy to have a paycheck now after Trump’s terrible shutdown. The agent at boarding even checked to see if the line was still in the jetway as it was very cold there too. We had a smooth, uneventful flight and arrived in San Diego 35 minutes early (1:00 instead of 1:35). The pilot announced that it was 80° warmer in San Diego than it had been in Minneapolis. It started raining about the time the Lyft driver showed up at the airport. Our room at Springhill Suites was ready, so we just relaxed until later in the afternoon. We met Lynn and Jim at Ruth’s Chris for happy hour—we’re all looking forward to the cruise on Saturday. 

Friday, February 1 — San Diego

We had breakfast at the hotel and went walking to check out San Diego. We stopped at Rite-Aid to try to find a power adapter, but they didn’t have the right one. We won’t need it on the ship (just the hotel) so it isn’t a big deal. At lunchtime we had some good salads at a bar called Bar One. It hasn’t rained much today and although they need it here we hoped we’d be able to walk to dinner tonight. The rain held off so we walked to Provisional Kitchen, Cafe and Mercantile in the Gaslamp district and had a nice meal. The pizza was especially good. Larue and Jim got in early and were there, too.

Cruise ship from Springhill Suites

Saturday, February 2

Another cloudy, dreary day in San Diego. Lynn called this morning with some bad news. She’s not feeling well and didn’t want to risk being sick on the ship, so she and Jim made arrangements to fly back to Minneapolis today. We rolled our bags the couple blocks from the hotel (photo above was taken from a hotel window) to the cruise terminal and had to wait a bit to board but went right to the Lido for lunch. It was raining hard and windy at 4:00 when we were supposed to do the lifeboat drill, so when we went out about 45 minutes later for the drill it was still raining but not so windy. We met Larue and Jim for an early dinner in the dining room. Barbara had some delicious pork belly and Jay had turkey. The Unglaubes will be great dinner companions but we’re all disappointed about Jim and Lynn not being with us. We played trivia tonight (just the 4 of us) and didn’t do too well. We may have to do some recruiting as most teams have 6 players. Barbara gambled for a bit, Jay went to the cabin to read. It was a little rocky and we decided to skip the show.

Sunday, February 3 

Our first sea day. We had breakfast in the dining room and met some nice people. We mentioned that we were taking our kids on the Allure in the Caribbean at the end of March. Mimi, who remembered us from the Alaska cruise, said she took her 13 year old grandson on that ship and he had a wonderful time with all the activities for young people. Barbara thinks Henry and Jamie may not want to go off the ship when we’re in port. We had lunch in the Lido again, and as this is a sea day, there was trivia at 1:00. Got the same bad score as yesterday. Maybe our brains are just too old. They were showing the Super Bowl game in the show room, but we didn’t care enough to watch it. Did a little gambling--Jay is up and Barbara is even. Dinner was good again although we had a table that was quite dark. We’re both reading John Grisham’s book The Reckoning and enjoying it.

Monday, February 4 — Cabo San Lucas

The ship dropped anchor around noon and we got our tender tickets after lunch. We had to wait about an hour before our number was called. We’ve been to Cabo San Lucas on several occasions so decided to just walk around. We’d barely started walking when we ran into Grace and her dad Simon, who we met on a previous cruise. She’s a terrific trivia player so we asked her to join our team. She lives in Victoria, British Columbia, and her dad is in a wheel chair because of a stroke. They missed their flight out of Victoria because of an airline screw-up and getting her dad on the tender to get to the ship was quite an operation. Grace cruises a lot so can tell us about the ports we’re visiting. We were shopping for a new travel water pic as we fried ours when it was accidentally plugged into the wrong voltage. We didn’t find one and probably won’t find one in any port. In one drugstore a lady (probably from the ship) was looking for a laxative, but she asked the clerk for something for constipation and then tried to simplify it by saying “poop!” The things people must do. Then she didn’t believe the clerk as the packaging was a small container that looked like Carmex. We had dinner with Jim and Larue in the Pinnacle tonight. It was great—Jay had a filet mignon and Barbara had halibut with shrimp scampi on a cedar plank. We shared both and went to the show after dinner. A comedian named Dave Burleigh provided the entertainment and was mostly funny. We didn’t leave port until about 11 pm so no gambling after dinner. The casino seems a little better than some.

Cabo San Lucas

Cabo San Lucas

Cabo San Lucas

Cabo San Lucas

Dinner at the Pinnacle

Tuesday, February 5

A sea day. It’s getting warm outside—upper 70s yesterday and today. We had breakfast in the dining room and met a retired nuclear medicine doctor. The conversation was very interesting—Jay experienced some nuclear medicine in the testing for his irregular heartbeat a few months ago. On sea days trivia is played at 1:00 and 7:00. Sometimes it’s hard to schedule meals but we haven’t missed one yet. We’ve been having a little trouble getting the same table every night. Different sources have told us different things, so it’s rather frustrating. Everyone is very pleasant though and the service is good but slow at times.  Our trivia scores have almost doubled from the pre-Grace days. Tonight was a Gala event, so we dressed up a little. Jay had tenderloin and shrimp for dinner but Barbara chose the rack of lamb. Oysters Rockefeller replaced the escargot as an appetizer that was shown on a earlier menu. It was quite good as were the entrees. We had champagne and a captain’s toast before the show. The captain told us it was going to get quite warm as we near the equator—90s and higher. The entertainer tonight was Toni Warne who was a winner of The Voice in the UK. She’s got a wonderful voice and is unique as she lost all her hair when she was 21. She competed in The Voice totally bald, but she’s wearing a sexy hat around the ship.

Wednesday, February 6

Another sea day. It’s warmer than yesterday, about 80 degrees. The humidity is high enough that we don’t have to slather our skin with lotion. We had breakfast and lunch in the Lido where we keep running into Grace and her dad Simon. Dinner tonight was so slow--about 1 hour's wait between the appetizers and main course. Those who ordered warm food had almost cold food. The staff knew we had to wait too long and said they’ll make it better. The entertainer tonight was Bernie Fields from Canada who was a (an?) harmonica virtuoso. Barbara’s mom would have loved him (she played a harmonica) as he made it sound like 3 or 4 harmonicas were playing, especially in Malaguania. After the show we went to the Lido for coffee and dessert, since we didn’t have time after dinner. Trivia starts at 7:00 and we’re always too late to get chairs and a table so we have to set up folding chairs. We’ve found some favorite slot machines and they’re being kind to us, although we’re not up. We set our clocks ahead an hour tonight—our second time—so now we’re on MN time.

Thursday, February 7 — Huatulco

Today’s port is Huatulco, a small city of about 15,000 people. We signed up for a 3 hour sail on a 44 foot cutter sloop named Luna Azul. It was very relaxing and there was a nice cool breeze. There were about 4 crew members in addition to the pilot. We drank a couple margaritas and also had a snack. The crew members were all entertaining, telling us all about the area. Huatulco is a very quiet place, and the vegetation is mostly brown as things don’t green up until the rainy season in the spring. We stopped in one of the many bays along the shore. Those who wished jumped or climbed down the ladder to swim or snorkel. The beaches in the bays are small and beautiful and very uncrowded. One of the funniest things we heard was when one of the crew members was talking about places to rent in the town and he pointed to a building and said “those are condoms”. One of the passengers corrected him and he laughed along with us but slipped and called them condoms a couple times after that. So close. Back on the ship we played trivia at 3:30. Dinner service was terrific tonight and it appears we will have the same table for 6 by the back windows for the rest of the cruise. A lady at our table is an author and she gave Barbara her card with her books on it. She was also a counselor with a PhD and had specialized in sexual abuse. Sounds like a tough job. The comedian, Dave Burleigh and the singer Toni Warne performed and were good. As you can see by the photo below the ship was very close to the beach. They dredged the area but cruise traffic is getting lighter, maybe because many ships are too big to get in. The welcome sign near the pier has a slogan that translates to “close to heaven”. Barbara hopes heaven isn’t quite this hot, as today the temp is close to 90.

Huatulco

Huatulco

Sailboat adventure in Huatulco

Huatulco

Friday, February 8 — Puerto Chiapas

It was our first time in Puerto Chiapas (also first in Huatulco yesterday). It looked totally different than Huatulco, as there were palm trees and the vegetation was a lot greener. Thought for a minute we were in Hawaii. This port is about a 20-30 minute ride to the nearest city, so we stayed around the ship as we weren’t taking a tour. It was quite warm, but local dancers were performing right along the pier. The costumes were very pretty and colorful. This port is very close to the border with Guatemala. Dinner tonight had a Caribbean theme, and we both had jambalaya. It was good but not nearly as spicy as our recipe from Ina Garten. The entertainer tonight was Russ Stolnack, a comedian who has six local Emmy awards in the San Diego area. He was pretty funny. 

Puerto Chiapas

Puerto Chiapas

Puerto Chiapas

We turned our clocks ahead for the third and last time. We’ll get it all back sailing from Peru back to San Diego but then lose two when we fly back to MSP after we disembark on March 4. The winds were about 42 miles/hour today on this sea day, but we didn’t know it as we went to sit by the pool at the very back of the ship. It was so windy that Jay suggested we move to the pool in the middle of the ship, which has a roof. They only had the roof open a little, but first the wind moved our beach bag about 5 feet, then Barbara's sandals followed. You couldn’t get a towel on the chair to lean back on. Barbara's Time magazine flew out of the bag and she had to chase a couple parts of it. We did stay out for about an hour, and Barbara had trouble getting a comb through her tangled hair. Jay said that Barbara wouldn't have to walk as far today as she’d go sideways as much as she went forward. Jay’s Apple watch indicated that he had done a day’s worth of movement by noon, but Barbara’s walk time didn’t seem any different. Today at trivia Bridget (from Petaluma CA) told us that a man had died on the ship a couple days ago. His wife, who has Alzheimer’s, didn’t realize he had died during the night and she went out on her own. We don’t know who took care of her but apparently someone got them on a plane out of Huatulco. The service at dinner tonight was slow again but the filet mignon Oscar was tasty. We could have skipped trivia, as it was a tough quiz about food and we didn’t do well. 

Saturday, February 9

Sunday, February 10

After breakfast in the dining room (Barbara still likes the Dungeness crab eggs benedict and Jay likes the ham and cheese skillet) we went to a talk on things to do in Manta, Ecuador. Interestingly, Panama hats originated in Ecuador but they sold well in Panama. When Teddy Roosevelt was shown waving one in a photo taken in the canal zone, the name Panama hats stuck.  We watched tv to see Amy Klobuchar’s announcement of her run for the presidency. Jeff was there and messaged a photo of all the snow. We did a little gambling and are both up—I think for the first time ever on a cruise after 8 days. We skipped the show tonight because it was BBC Earth’s Planet II in Concert that we have seen recently. Love sea days but they fly by and we don’t seem to get much done. 

Monday, February 11 — Panama City

We went on an excursion that left about 8:30. Panama City is building a cruise ship terminal but we had to go ashore by tender. They put about 20 of us on a little bus and the width of the aisle seemed about 10 inches. It wasn’t very comfortable. Our guide mentioned on the drive that John McCain and Rod Carew were born in Panama. We went by the Frank Gehry’s Biodiversity Museum and also rows of palm trees that were laid out to represent the width and length of the Miraflores locks. We next went to the locks, where our guide told us what to see but didn’t give us much information about the exhibits and the movie times. The building has a viewing platform. We’ve been on two complete transits of the canal, and have waved to the people on the viewing stand as we went through the lock. Now we were on the viewing platform and while there was a big ship going through we didn’t see any cruise ships. We were taking photos of each other when a nice man came up and offered to take one of the two of us. He was very friendly and chatty and told us he was from MN (what a small world!). He and his wife live in North Branch and were visiting their son who is a doctor doing his residency in Panama. Next we looked at the four floors of exhibits about the building of the canal. There were escalators to go from one floor to another and our guide called the them “electric stairs”. We also saw an interesting short film about the building of the canal. We drove through the canal zone next and saw the old Army base where the buildings aren’t used for housing now. When the U.S. military left, control of the canal passed to Panama and they decided they didn’t need a military. The police handle all incidents. When we were in Costa Rica we were told they don’t have a military, either. Our last drive was through Panama City. While it looks very modern from a distance, close up it wasn’t very attractive. Traffic was heavy and there really wasn’t much to see, but someone in our group had lived and gone to school in Panama as a kid, so we think he asked to see the city. It was a cloudy day and the temperature was comfortable, probably in the low 80s. After dinner tonight we went to see VOXX Urban Tenors, a quartet of young men who were pretty good. Trivia is fun but there are two teams who always seem to win. 

Frank Gehry's Biomuseo, Panama City

Canal Zone

Miraflores Locks

Miraflores Locks

Miraflores Locks Exhibition Hall

Miraflores Locks Exhibition Hall

Panama City - Cancer hospital in Canal Zone

Panama City - messy up close

Panama City - impressive from a distance

Tuesday, February 12

Today is a sea day and we didn’t do much. The entertainer tonight was a Cuban pianist named Juan Pablo Subirana. He added some humor and dance to his program but it wasn’t appreciated by all.

Wednesday, February 13 — Equador

This is our first time in Ecuador and we chose an excursion called Manta and Montecristi. On the bus on our way to our first stop we saw surfers in the water right near our ship. Museo Cancebi, which was to be our first stop in Manta, was not available, as air-conditioning, toilets and elevators were not working because of a recent heavy rain storm. We went to Museum of the Central Bank instead and learned a little about the history of Ecuador. Manta has the population of about 250,000 and is the fifth largest in the country. An earthquake of 7.8 magnitude occurred on April 16, 2016 and killed 668 people and injured thousands. We could still see the damage to buildings, so some have not been fixed or rebuilt. From Manta we drove to a ‘factory’ that made something called tagua, or vegetable ivory. It is a very hard substance which is cut and carved into many shapes. It looks like ivory, but elephants don’t have to die to make it.  They sold some of the carvings very cheaply. They also make buttons out of it and we saw most of the processes to make these items. They also make jewelry out of tagua. From there we went to a place where they wove mats and bags from agave leaves. Our guide spoke English, but we had a little trouble understanding him and he had trouble understanding us. Our next stop was in Montecristi where we watched two women making Panama hats. The process of making these looks almost impossible. Women are bent over a stand with padding and they look straight down as they weave the hats. We heard in a ship lecture that the best hats can cost $10,000 and they are so bendable that you could fold and draw one through a ring like a wedding band. The hats were sold here for about $20, but we didn’t buy one. Their selling tactics are like those of very aggressive places like Mexico and Turkey. If you make eye contact they’re there with something in their hands they’d like you to buy. There was a very impressive mausoleum where General Jose Delgado, their elected leader in the early 20th century was interred. He must have been well loved, as it was the most impressive structure we’ve seen in Ecuador. Ecuador’s exports include roses, bananas and fish (especially tuna). It looks like a very poor country and most houses look unfinished, but that’s because tax laws are such that their taxes increase when the facade is finished, so they let it go for many years. When we returned from the excursion Barbara went to the Medical Center to see a doctor as she’d been having an occasional pain in her left ear. He didn’t see anything in the ear but said it might be an infection that was just starting. He prescribed amoxicillin and when the nurse gave it to Barbara she told her it might cause diarrhea. The prescription Barbara’s doctor at home gave her for altitude sickness is basically a diuretic. She’s decided she doesn’t want to spend her time on the three-day Machu Picchu trip looking for a bathroom so she doesn’t plan to take the pills. While she was waiting for the doctor a man came in who had just had an emergency root canal at a dental office the ship’s people had found for him. He said it cost him $80 for two hours of agony. Barbara had one a couple years ago and spent a lot more money. The entertainer tonight was Mike Robinson who is a Canadian ventriloquist. He and his dummy were very funny.

Montecristi - carving Tagua (vegetable ivory)

Montecristi - carving Tagua (vegetable ivory)

Monticristi - weaving

Monticristi - weaving

Monticristi - making Panama hats

Monticristi - making Panama hats

Monticristi - making Panama hats

Montecristi - Mausoleum of General José Eloy Alfaro Delgado

Montecristi - Mausoleum of General José Eloy Alfaro Delgado

Manta

Thursday, February 14

Today is another sea day. We sent birthday greetings to Mary Ann this morning and heard back from her that they are going to SLO tomorrow to celebrate her birthday with her and Bud’s families. We’re busy today getting ready for our adventure to Machu Picchu. The dinner menu featured steak and lobster on this Valentine’s Day and it was a Gala (dress up) evening. The Voxx Urban Tenors were the entertainment tonight but we couldn’t find seats so missed the show.

Friday, February 15 — Salaverry, Peru

Today we are in the port of Salaverry in Peru but our shore excursion will be in the city of Trujillo, which is a short drive away. We first stopped at a temple that was built of mud bricks. We then proceeded to the Chan Chan City, which is a very large area of an old city where thousands lived in this totally mud brick area. We think the structures are about 1,000 years old, and Chan Chan was especially interesting. The inhabitants of this city and also the Lost City of the Incas didn’t have a written language, so their stories have been mostly reconstructed by archeologists. The city of Trujillo is pretty unattractive, as was Manta in Ecuador. There wasn’t much grass and flowers and the trash on the streets overflowed the garbage containers. Our last visit was to see the reed boats that are made of local grasses and are still used today. Tonight was our last night of trivia with Jim and LaRue. We never came close to beating the two teams who always win—The Blue Whales and the Nutcrushers.  The show consisted of repeat performances by the pianist Juan Pablo and the ventriloquist Mike.

Manta temple

Manta temple

Manta temple

Chan Chan complex

Chan Chan complex

Huanchaco Beach, Reed Boats

Huanchaco Beach, Reed Boats

Huanchaco Beach

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© Jay 2020